The Haiku Stairs, aka "Stairway To Heaven" on the island of Oahu, is a very popular bucket list hike for residents and visitors. Some may argue it is one of Oahu's greatest attractions, and it is easy to understand why. The Haiku Stairs is comprised of 3,992 steps spanning up and along the Ko'olau mountain range overlooking the most stunning valley.
The stairs, often at a vertical incline, are currently illegal to hike, and fines of up to $1,000 have been reported. The Stairway to Heaven trailhead is often guarded by security and a frequent police presence. The stairs are not currently maintained and have become quite dangerous at various points during the climb. Although there is a heavy security presence at the bottom of the stairs, police waiting at the top of the hike is very uncommon.
There has been recent talk about repairing the stairs, maintaining the trail, and reopening them to the public; however, as of January 2021, they remain closed and *illegal* to hike. Although climbing 3,992 steps may be the most direct way to the top of Oahu's best views, there is an alternate *legal* trail to the same extraordinary viewpoint.
Below I will share our Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Trail to the Haiku Stairs experience, what to expect, and how to prepare for the all-day hike. First, let's learn a little bit more about the history of the Haiku Stairs.
History Of The Haiku Stairs
The Haiku stairs were originally built in 1942 by the US Navy to access a top-secret facility, the Haiku Radio Station. The radio station was responsible for transmitting radio signals to ships sailing in the Pacific Ocean. In order to obtain the necessary height for the antennae, the station was set at the top of the Haiku Valley, a natural amphitheater. The radio station was commissioned in 1943, and when the Naval base was decommissioned in the 1950s, the US Coast Guard used the site as a navigation system station. The original wooden stairs were replaced by sections of metal steps around this time, and the stairs were eventually closed to the public until 1987, when they were deemed unsafe. The secret radio station remains at the top of the stairs and makes for the perfect picnic lookout.
In 2003, the city spent over $875,000 to repair the stairs; however, they remain illegal and closed to the public. Adventurous hikers and tourists continue to illegally sneak past the guard and make their way to the bottom of the stairs to experience the thrilling climb to the top. Our hiking group did not feel it was necessary to risk a $1,000 fine when another hiking option was available. We chose to hike the legal route along the Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Trail.
***Disclaimer: This hike is not appropriate for children or beginner hikers. Additionally, please hike at your own risk; we do not recommend hiking the illegal Haiku Stairs Trail.
What To Bring & Preparing For Your Hike
The Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Trail to the Haiku Stairs is a 10.7 mile (roundtrip) hike along varying terrains with several rope climb sections and very narrow ridge climbing. This hike is long, and the weather can change quickly along the trail as you ascend to just shy of 3,000ft elevation.
Although our hiking crew lucked out with perfect weather on the day we conquered this trail; most hikers often report rainy weather and a large amount of mud along the trail. Even if you get lucky and do not experience rain, it can still get cold and moist at the top; after all, you will literally be "in the clouds". The hike will take most of the day, and various portions of the trail do not provide much shade.
Below is a list of recommended items to bring; you may not need all of them depending on the weather and condition of the trail, but it is always better to be prepared for an all-day hike like this.
- Water!!! Bring twice as much as you think you may need. I brought a 2L bladder of water and a smaller 550mL bottle, as well as a large bottle of water to leave in the car. I do not typically drink much water while hiking; however, it became very hot, and I did end up running out of water at the end of our hike.
- Snacks/Lunch- Our hiking crew took a long break at the top of the radio tower and enjoyed a picnic lunch while being mesmerized by the views. Snacks along the trail were helpful to maintain energy and refuel when needed.
- Spikes/Crampons- As mentioned above, this trail can become very muddy and slippery along the narrow path. Although I did not need to use my spikes due to very little mud on the trail, I was glad to know I had them should I have needed them.
-Gloves- This trail has several rope climbing sections along its course, and gloves will save your hands during these climbs. The ropes are shredded and can become slippery if wet, so I highly recommend bringing some type of glove; workout gloves or gardening gloves work great.
-Sunscreen/Hat/Sunglasses- Portions of this hike are not shaded, and direct sunlight is very likely for long stretches of the trail. Sun protection is highly recommended.
- Rain Jacket- This trail is often wet at the top due to the elevation gain and clouds; additionally, it often rains at some point along this trail. A small rain jacket will be nice to have to avoid hiking in wet clothing.
-Portable Power Bank- Although the trail is relatively straightforward and often has a fair amount of hikers, it is still a great idea to bring a power bank to charge your phone should you need it for pictures, videos, or an emergency.
- Flashlight- Not necessary if you plan to hike during the day; however, if you are planning to reach the top for sunrise, or if you plan to hike later in the day and run the risk of hiking in the dark, a flashlight may be useful.
Now that we have discussed recommended items to bring let's go over getting to the trail.
Getting There
There is plenty of street parking outside of the Moanalua Valley Park. Be respectful of the residents and their properties, especially if arriving to the trail early. Additional parking is available in the park parking lot; however, the gates are not always open early in the morning and may close before you return to your vehicle. There are public restrooms at the park before reaching the trailhead.
After parking, the trailhead is a short walk up from the playground, and the trail begins just after the green gate.
Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Hiking Adventure
Our small hiking crew set out to conquer the Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Trail to the Haiku Stairs early one Saturday morning. We arrived at the trail around 7am and spent the next 10 hours on the most memorable adventure.
The first 2.9 miles of the trail are straightforward and only have approximately 100-foot elevation gain each mile. The path is wide and consists of many forks in the road, which all lead back to the same point. This first portion of the trail is the Moanalua Valley Trail, which eventually leads to the Middle Ridge Trail.
After crossing over 17 small bridges made of stones, we reached the Kulana'ahane Trailhead on our lefthand side and turned left here to cross over a small stream. Several online sources recommended to continue past this trailhead about 15 feet; however, after meeting another hiking group who had experience with the trail, we were reassured the Kulana'ahane was the correct turn-off. After turning left at the trailhead and crossing over the small stream, we began to ascend fairly quickly along this new trail. Shortly into the trail, we came across a tree arch with Middle Ridge carved in it; this confirmed we were heading the right direction.
The first mile of this trail climbed a steady 900 feet and was primarily through lush terrains covered with trees and large roots. The next mile brought on 1100 feet of elevation gain and was much more exposed, often with drop-offs on either side. As I mentioned above, our group completely lucked out with clear skies, very little wind, and no rain on our adventure. As the trail continues and narrows, a day with high winds would significantly increase the risk and complexity of this hike. We continued along the very narrow ridgelines overlooking the most stunning valley views on both sides.
Shortly after we reached the more exposed sections of the trail, we encountered several rope climbing portions. The first few rope sections were short and less vertical with suitable rock formations for footing, and the final rope climb section was much steeper and more narrow.
After several hours of hiking, the radio tower came into sight, and we were all relieved to see our end goal ahead of us. We continued on the narrow path a little further and eventually made our way up to the abandoned radio tower and top of the stairs.
The views were INDESCRIBABLE!! The view from the tower provides a panoramic picture of Honolulu and southern Oahu, and the lookouts as we approached the tower were just as stunning.
After our long climb to the top, we explored the radio tower and relaxed for about an hour while enjoying lunch. The lookout was completely clear and visible for about 15-20 minutes while we were up there, and soon after, clouds quickly began to roll in. It was incredible to witness how quickly the clouds can cover the entire view. We were so fortunate to have made it to the top in time to experience some of Oahu's most extraordinary views, and we were even more fortunate the rain held off for our journey back down the trail.
After snapping an abundance of photos and videos and enjoying a bite to eat, we headed back down the trail. Although some hikers choose to walk back down the steps, this is illegal and not recommended. It is recommended to descend the way you came, along the Moanalua Valley Middle Ridge Trail.
Following a long trek back down the mountain with several rest periods and photo ops along the way, we made it back just in time to catch the sunset!
10 hours, 10.7 miles, approximately 3,000 foot elevation gain, and one unforgettable adventure!
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